Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
